Drawknife
Written by Tom Jefferson   

drawknife_thumbThe drawknife is one of my favorite tools to use, at least when it's sharp and the wood is green and soft.  You can take long clean shavings from your work, the kind that give you goosebumps and make you pay reverence. For timber framing the drawknife has many uses.  It's most commonly associated with making pegs on the drawhorse.  (You'll make a lot of roundish pegs from square stock during the construction of a timber frame building.)  But besides pegs, it's also used to remove bark from trees, clean up waney edges, chamfer the edges on timbers, trim wood shingles, make handles for chisels... the drawknife has many uses.  You'll want to find a drawknife of good quality, that is comfortable to use, and matches the type of work you'll be doing.  This article shows you what to look for when buying a drawknife, how to restore and sharpen a drawknife, and how to use a drawknife.

 
Barking Spud
Written by Tom Jefferson   

Barking SpudThe barking spud, or barking iron, is a tool used to remove bark from a log.  It's a spoon or wedge shaped iron bit that is worked underneath the bark to free it from the log.  The bark on a freshly cut green log is much easier to skin off than a log that has been left to dry.

I bought the barking spud in the picture to the left for $9.95 on eBay.  It's hand forged by an anonymous blacksmith (no visible stamping). Most barking spuds that I've seen are shaped more like a spoon, but this one has a chisel and hook that makes it an interesting find.  And did I mention this was less than $10 bucks?  In this article, I'll restore a vintage hand forged barking spud to working condition.  

 
How to Sharpen an Axe
Written by Tom Jefferson   

restored_double_bit_axe_thumb

Restoring an old axe can be very rewarding. The axe in the picture above was discovered in the basement of an old barn in Michigan.  To restore an axe, you'll need a few tools and a lot of patience.  This article takes you through the basic steps to properly sharpen your axe; shaping with a flat file, grinding with the axe stone, and stropping with leather.  If you're patient and take the time to follow the steps outlined in this article, your axe will be shaving sharp.

 
How to Hang an Axe... Replace the Handle
Written by Tom Jefferson   

If you're buying a used axe that hasn't been used in a long time, it'll probably have a broken handle.  If you're splitting wood with with a maul, eventually you'll miss and strike the handle causing it to crack or shatter completely.  Properly replacing the handle on an axe takes a little bit of know-how. Instead of writing a lengthly article on the subject, I found a great video from the US Forest Service that explains how to properly hang an axe.  The first part of the video deals with hanging the axe.  The second part of the video deals with sharpening an axe.  

 
Broadaxe
Written by Tom Jefferson   

broadaxe_thumbBroadaxes come in a wide range of shapes and sizes; big goosewing style broadaxes with a 12" blade to short handled chopping broadaxe with a 5" blade. They vary in size in shape based on the region they came from, the type of wood they were designed to cut, the time period they were made, and the craftsman who forged them.  It's one of my favorite tools to use.  Most used broadaxe bits can be brought back to life with a little attention.  If you want to find a used broadaxe online, eBay always seems to have a fresh supply, but it's tough to buy something without first examining it by hand.  Another way to find a used broadaxe is to post an ad on Craigslist saying you're looking for a hand-forged hewing broadaxe.   That's how I found my first broadaxe.  Of course you can look at antique shops and fairs, auctions, tool shows, etc.  At one time these types of axes were common, so they're not that hard to find.  Nowadays most people don't understand what they're used for.  This article will tell you what to look for when shopping for a used broadaxe.

 
Where to Buy Timber Frame Tools Online
Written by Tom Jefferson   

If you're new to timber framing, you probably don't have the specialized tools to turn logs into a frame.  The tools have been around for centuries, and work as well or better than the modern equivalent.  The technology remains largely unchanged.  If you're trying to buy used tools at a flea market or auction, they'll likely need significant cleaning, repair, and sharpening before they can be used.  If you're going to go this route, get acquainted with what old brands and what to look for in a quality tool.  If you're like me and don't want to spend the time to find and refurbish old tools, you can order any of the tools needed online.  Here are some websites that carry the tools you'll need to build a timber frame.  

Woodcraft  http://www.woodcraft.com/
This company is one of the largest woodworking tool companies in the US.  

Frog Tool Co.  http://www.frogwoodtools.com/ 
This company carries a wide selection of timber framing tools.  Saws, chisels, planes, axes, adzes, Lignum Vitae mallets, measuring and marking tools, etc.

Magard Ventures  http://www.logbuildingtools.ca/ 
A company out of British Columbia Canada that specializes in log building and timber framing tools.  

Lie-Lielsen Toolworks  http://www.lie-nielsen.com/
A woodworking company in Maine that specializes in quality hand tools.

Barr Specialty Tools  http://www.barrtools.com
Hand forged chisels, adzes, draw knives, slicks, etc.

Crosscut Saw Co. http://www.crosscutsaw.com/
One-man and two-man saws, saw sharpening and maintenance, adz, slick, froe, log handling tools, etc.

Gransfors Bruks http://www.gransfors.se/
Hand forged axes from Sweden.

Timber Tools http://www.timbertools.com/
Everything you'll need for timber framing and log building.  This company carries a lot of specialized power equipment like chain mortisers, jigs, and CNC machines.

Timberwolf Tools http://www.timberwolftools.com/
This company carries a lot of power tools like beam saws, chain mortisers, plainers, drill stands, etc.  They have some nice video demos of their products on their website. 

Bailey's http://www.baileysonline.com/
This company carries some a lot of outdoor equipment for logging.  They also have some timber framing tools.

Logrite http://www.logrite.com/
This company makes excellent logging tools.  We're talking heavy duty American made peaveys, cant hooks, hookeroons, and log carriers; tools you'll need if you're harvesting your own timber.

Highland Woodworking http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/
This company carries a ton of hand tools including a wide selection of Gransfors Bruks axes. 

 
Slab on Grade for Cold Climates
Written by Tom Jefferson   

frost_protected_shallow_footing_thumbMost builders in cold climates don't think to use a slab on grade foundation.  If they're already digging a footing that's 42" below grade, they my as well add a crawl-space or dig a little further and provide a full basement.  But there are ways to build foundations without digging below the frost line.  Frank Lloyd Wrights Usonian homes were build without a footing.  Cement was poured directly on gravel, which the building rested on.  Today we have rigid foam insulation, and ways to protect the foundation from frost heaves in extreme cold weather conditions.  The building term for these types of foundations (i.e. insulated slabs on grade) are called "Frost Protected Shallow Footings" or FPSFs.  A FPSF combined with radiant heat makes this type of foundation an attractive and inexpensive alternative to a full basement or crawl space.

The idea behind frost protected shallow foundations is to insulate the perimeter of the foundation and horizontally from the base of the foundation.  The insulation captures the heat from the house and preserves the ground temperature around the foundation preventing the ground from getting cold enough to heave.  

 
How to Hand Hew a Log
Written by Tom Jefferson   

Hewing refers to shaping the timbers. Doing it by hand like the old timers requires skill, precision, and stamina.  This article assumes you already have your timber setup in a secure and workable position.  It also assumes you've marked your chalk lines and are ready to start shaping the timber.